Arnhemland
Occupying some 94,000 km², Arnhem Land is a vast, little-visited area with stunning scenery and great rock-art sites.
The land here is almost all Aboriginal land; some areas are leased for other purposes such as Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park and the mining operations near Nuhlunbuy (on Gove Peninsula) and on Groote Eylandt.
Nhulunbuy to:
- Katherine 776km
- Darwin 1100km
Cobourg Peninsula to:
- East Alligator (boundary with Kakadu National Park) 270km
- Jabiru (main service centre in Kakadu National Park) 310km
- Darwin 560km
Population
- Oenpelli: 745
- Nhulunbuy: 3,720
- Arnhem Land: 16,000
Economy
Recreational and commercial fishing industry, mining (bauxite), refinery of alumina, and tourism form the economic base for the region.
Climate
The Top End has two seasons:
Dry/Winter (April to September):
- Little rainfall with mild to warm conditions
- Average temperatures are maximum 32°C, minimum 20°C
- Humidity levels are low, averaging between 55% - 65%
Wet/Summer (January to March):
- Heaviest rain falling from January onwards, average 320mm in January.
- Average temperatures are maximum 33°C, minimum 25°C
- Humidity levels average between 80% - 90%
October to December is the build-up to the wet season. Rising temperatures and humidity levels are accompanied by spectacular storms.
Current weather forecast for Oenpelli.
Environment
To the north and east Arnhem Land is bounded by rocky headlands and soft, white beaches with clear tropical waters. It takes in Elcho Island, the Gove Peninsula and the western shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria from Nhulunbuy to the Roper River, including Groote Eylandt.
The central plateau is a mosaic of outcrops and woodlands, interspersed with paperbark-lined creeks. During 'the Wet' rivers surge from this high country to a dramatic coastline.
Flora And Fauna
The following information is provided courtesy of Tropical Savannah CRC.
The Arnhem Land region shares many of the biological features of the Darwin-Kakadu region:
- Open forests: Eucalypt open forests (typically dominated by Darwin stringybark and Darwin woollybutt,) dominate extensive areas of Arnhem Land. Cypress pine is also prevalent.
Many of the animals associated with these eucalypt forests - such as the brushtail possum, northern brown bandicoot, agile wallaby, delicate mouse, red-collared lorikeet, brown honeyeater, silver-crowned friarbird, weebill and white-bellied cuckoo-shrike - are widespread in Arnhem Land.
In contrast, some species common in eucalypt forests elsewhere in northern Australia are either comparatively rare or absent from most of Arnhem Land: these include many of the finches, some raptors and the fawn antechinus.
- Rivers and floodplains: East of the East Alligator River, most of the rivers of Arnhem Land are relatively small, and the floodplains relatively restricted. The Goyder/Glyde system is the most distinctive, including the vast Arafura Swamp, the most extensive melaleuca wetland in Australia. This is an important breeding site for magpie geese and other waterfowl, and the swampland and adjacent areas contain many highly restricted plant species. Saltwater Crocodile
- Coastal areas: Coastal areas of Arnhem Land include some of the best-developed sandsheet and sand dune formations in northern Australia, especially at Cape Arnhem Peninsula and on Groote Eylandt. These support some distinctive heathlands, and some localised animal species, including the northern hopping-mouse and the burrowing skinks. Mangroves are also well developed along much of the shoreline of Arnhem Land, and support a rich associated biota including the false water-rat, mangrove monitor, chestnut rail and mangrove golden whistler.
History
Home to Aboriginal people for at least 40, 000 years, various waves of migration, tribal conquests, and amalgamation of tribal peoples have occurred.
- 1600s - The Dutch explorers, Willem van Colster, Jan Carstensz and Abel Tasman explored the coastline.
- 1838 - Victoria settlement established on Cobourg Peninsula. The settlement was abandoned in 1849 due to isolation and disease.
- 1845 - Ludwig Leichardt passed through the area on his expedition from southern Queensland.
- 1869 - Darwin (or Palmerston as it was called then) was founded.
- 1872 - Completion of the Overland Telegraph Line from Adelaide to Darwin.
- 1931 - Arnhem Land was proclaimed an Aboriginal reserve.
- 1970 - Nhulunbuy, Gove Peninsula, settled to service the bauxite mine in the area.
- 1981 - Ownership of the Cobourg Peninsula returned to traditional Aboriginal owners. Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park established.
Indigenous Culture
A stronghold of traditional life, the area has been home to many different Aboriginal peoples for thousands of years and even today as many as 40 separate languages are spoken. The distinctive x-ray style rock art and bark paintings of wallabies, fish and fearsome spirit beings seen only in Arnhem Land, reflect the intimate relationship the traditional owners have with the land and it's bounty.
Things To See And Do
Eastern Arnhemland:
- The seas surrounding Gove boast some of the best tropical sport and reef-fishing opportunities available anywhere in the world and the area is now being acclaimed as one of the last great fishing frontiers. Try your hand at diving, fishing or snorkelling.
- Visit the Buku Larrnggay Mulka Centre. This is a place where you can really experience the traditional Aboriginal arts and crafts. Another Aboriginal art gallery is Nambara Arts and Crafts. Here you can see the yidaki (didgeridoo) being played.
- Another major attraction is the bauxite mine. There are tours of the mine every Friday morning. This is the largest industrial undertaking in Northern Territory.
Western Arnhemland and Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park:
- Take a boat trip across the waters of Port Essington to walk the streets and ruins of the historic Victoria Settlement, former pioneer town and failed colony.
- Go fishing! Teeming with life, the waters of Cobourg Peninsula are every fisherman's dream.
- Take a 4WD tour through the Park and view Australia's first recognised RAMSAR wetlands (wetlands of international importance) a major destination for migratory birds to Australia.
- Go bushwalking or hiking, visit the Cultural Centre, explore the forests, beaches and lagoons or just relax in a totally isolated environment.
- Take a tour to Davidson's Arnhemland Safari Camp, Mt. Borradaile, Western Arnhem Land. Mt. Borradaile is renowned as one of the richest and most powerful Aboriginal cultural sites in Australia. Access is restricted and only available exclusively with Savannah Guides operator, Davidson's Arnhemland Safaris.
Services
Eastern Arnhemland - Nhulunbuy offers:
- Service station
- Hospital, chemist
- Post office
- Supermarkets, clothing shops, dive shop, souvenir and sports store, beauty salon, takeaway shops, hairdressers, hardware stores, electrical goods shop, newsagency
- 2 motels in Nhulunbuy; there are no caravan and camping facilities.
Western Arnhem Land and Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park:
The following services are available at Jabiru, Kakadu National Park:
- Service station
- Chemist
- Post office, Westpac Bank
- Supermarket, clothing store, camping and sporting goods store, newsagency and gift shop
- Hotel, lodge and caravan/camping accommodation.
Backpacker and camping accommodation is available at East Alligator (Cahill's Crossing), the eastern boundary of Kakadu National Park. The Border Store supplies fuel and basic groceries.
Resort, cabin, hut, lighthouse and camping accommodation is available in Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park. Basic groceries and fuel are available at the Gurig Store.
Accommodation is also available at Savannah Guides accredited Davidson's Arnhemland Safari Camp, Mt. Borradaile, midway between Jabiru and Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park. Access is restricted and via Davidson's Arnhemland Safaris only.
Access
- Air: There is an international airport in Darwin; domestic airlines fly into Darwin, Katherine, and Tennant Creek. Gove Airport is on the scheduled route of major domestic airlines flying between Darwin and Cairns and is now serviced by weekly commercial flights. Charter flights operate from Darwin into Mt. Borradaile and the Cobourg Peninsula.
- Self Drive - Eastern Arnhemland: Access is with 4WD only via the Central Arnhem Land Highway. The Highway leaves the Stuart Highway 52kms south of Katherine. There are two major river crossings: the Wilton River near Bulman Aboriginal Community and the Goyder River, about 300kms from Nhulunbuy.
The first 30kms is sealed but from then on the road is corrugated, slippery with loose gravel and in some places heavy with dust. The road is not suitable for caravans.The Highway passes through Yolngu Clan lands, so a permit from the Northern Land Council (NLC) is required. There is no cost for this permit at this stage but it is necessary to preserve the area and monitor the numbers of people on the track. Permits can be obtained from the NLC office in Nhulunbuy by phoning 08 8987 2602. You will have to substantiate where you are staying once you arrive, i.e. you must have booked accommodation or be staying with friends or relatives in Gove.
The only fuel available on the track is from The Outback Store (about 250km from Katherine) at Mainoru River where you can also get cold drinks, fuel and supplies. There is no more fuel after this until you reach Nhulunbuy, so it is necessary to carry jerry cans of fuel.It should be noted that with each wet season, the road changes so the information varies all through the year.
Check road conditions when applying for permit at least two weeks prior to travel. Call 1800 246 199 or check online.
- Self Drive - Western Arnhem Land and Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park: Access by permit only. Road access (May to October, four-wheel drive only) is via Jabiru, Kakadu National Park, and East Alligator/Cahill's Crossing. Visitor numbers are restricted so book well in advance.
Your permit does not allow you to stop between Kakadu National Park and Gurig Ganuk Barlu National Park. If you wish to stop in this area, you can only do so on tour with Savannah Guides operator, Davidson's Arnhemland Safaris. Check road conditions prior to travel. Call 1800 246 199 or check online.
- Tour: The following accredited Savannah Guides Operators offer tours to Arnhem Land:
Further Information
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