Cape York Peninsula
Queensland's Cape York Peninsula encompasses the northernmost
point in Australia. The region is home to stunning rainforest,
dry savannah, good fishing and a range of great National Parks.
Covering some 150, 000km², the peninsula is almost equal in
size to the state of Victoria, or the combined area of England,
Scotland and Wales. Distances from Cairns are:
- Cooktown 246km
- Weipa 804km
- Bamaga 952km
Population
18,000 mainly concentrated in the towns of Cooktown and Weipa,
Thursday Island and the northern indigenous communities. The region
receives up to 100,000 visitors a year.
Economy
The key industries are tourism, mining, fishing and pastoral.
Climate
Cape York has two very distinct seasons:
Dry/Winter (April to September):
- Little or no rainfall from May with mild to warm conditions
- Average temperatures are maximum 25°C, minimum 15°C (southern
uplands) and 21°C (north)
- Humidity levels are low, averaging between 20% - 60%
Wet/Summer (October to March):
- Heaviest rain falls from January onwards; ranges from an annual
average of 800 mm in the south to 2400 mm in the north
- Average temperatures are maximum 36°C (inland) and 33°C (coastal),
minimum 25 °C
- Humidity levels average between 60% - 80%
Current weather forecast for Cooktown
and Weipa.
Environment
Geologically, Cape York Peninsula is a diverse area both in
the age and the type of rocks found there. Surface rocks include
intrusive and extrusive igneous, metamorphic, and terrestrial
and marine sedimentary rocks. They vary in age from about 2,000
million years ago to less than 100, 000 years ago.
The Carpentaria Basin occupies nearly two-thirds of the western
side of the peninsula. This consists predominantly of low plains,
rarely exceeding 150m in height. They slope gently to the west,
forming a huge drainage area of river channels and flood basins.
The plains are composed of sediments and extend from the coast
a long way inland.
The Great Dividing Range rises at the tip of Cape York and follows
the east coast all the way south. From Cairns to Cooktown, the
granitic mountains rise to nearly 1400m (the highest peak is Mt.
Thornton in the Daintree, at 1375m).
The Laura Basin lies on the eastern side of the Great Dividing
Range The Laura basin is the drainage area for the Normanby River
and its tributaries. Like the Carpentaria basin, the Laura basin
is composed of sediments.
Flora
The vegetation of the Cape is very diverse, with many species
that are found nowhere else in Australia. The vegetation includes
the following communities:
- Eucalypt: The most dominant vegetation type found in
Cape York. Darwin stringybarks are particularly common, along
with ironbarks and bloodwoods.
- Melaleucas: The paperbarks are usually found in waterlogged
areas. They include the broadleaved paperbark and the weeping
paperbark which can grow to 40m.
- Rainforest: The World Heritage rainforests south of
Cooktown conserve many of the world's most ancient flowering
plants. The rainforest isolated in Iron Range National Park
and at the tip of Cape York shows a mix with more recent species
that evolved in south east Asia and migrated. There are many
endemic species of flora and fauna.
- Mangrove: The Cape is also home to some of the largest
and varied mangrove communities in Australia, which are vital
feeding grounds for birds, fish, crocodiles, and mammals. Beautiful
flowering plants, such as banksias, grevilleas, and leptospermums,
are common on the heaths.
Fauna
The following information is provided courtesy of Tropical
Savannah CRC.
From a zoologist's point of view, Cape York Peninsula is somewhat
like an island. It has a unique blend of animals from surrounding
regions such as Arnhem Land, North East Queensland and Papua New
Guinea, as well as its own endemic fauna that are found nowhere
else. The peninsula is not an island of course, however there
are barriers to the movement of animals that are just as significant
as if it was surrounded by water.
A broad, low-lying dry belt stretches across the bottom of the
peninsula through the Laura Basin and extends north towards Cape
Melville and Princess Charlotte Bay. Cape York Peninsula also
has no highland connections with the rest of the Great Dividing
Range. This has effectively prevented the migration to and from
Cape York for many species.
- Birds: 321 species of bird have been recorded on the
Cape York Peninsula, making it a mecca for bird watchers.
- Endemic birds include the golden-shouldered parrot and
the white-streaked honeyeater.
- 18 species only found on Cape York, including the palm
cockatoo, eclectus parrot, red-cheeked parrot, yellow-billed
kingfisher, red-bellied pitta, green-backed honeyeater,
tawny-breasted honeyeater, white-faced robin, frilled monarch,
black-backed butcherbird and fawn-breasted bowerbird.
- Northern rainforests are home to two species of birds
of paradise from Papua New Guinea: the magnificent riflebird
and the trumpet manucode.
- Emus are found throughout the region; the cassowary is
found in the rainforests south of Cooktown and in the Iron
Range area.
- Waterfowl such as brolgas, jabirus, and sarus cranes are
common on the flat plains and lagoons of the west coast.
- Mammals: 72 recorded species of mammals, including
3 gliders, 3 possums, 10 macropods (wallabies, kangaroos and
pademelons), and 31 bats. Many of the mammal species present
at the tip of Cape York also occur in Papua New Guinea. These
include the echidna, rufous spiny bandicoot, southern brown
bandicoot, striped possum, sugar glider, spotted cuscus, agile
wallaby and water rat.
- Frogs: 31 described species of frogs, 3 of which are
found nowhere else in Australia. The well-known giant white-lipped
tree frog is common throughout the Wet Tropics, while the Cape
Melville frog was only described in 1997. An unwelcome amphibian
is the introduced cane toad that is poisonous to much of Australia's
native fauna. Its spread to the tip of Cape York in 1994 affected
many natural systems.
- Snakes and Reptiles: 156 described species of reptile,
19 of which are found nowhere else in Australia. Two crocodiles,
six marine turtles, seven freshwater tortoises, 15 geckos, four
legless lizards, five dragons, nine goannas (monitors), 39 skinks
and 46 snakes (only five of which are dangerous). The best known
of the crocodiles is the saltwater or estuarine crocodile. Isolated
beaches are also nesting beaches for several species of marine
turtle. New species are being found all the time: a new, bright
pink snake with the humorous name of Rhinoplocephalus incredibilis
has been found on the beaches of Prince of Wales Island off
the tip of Cape York.
History
At least 40,000 years ago Aboriginal people arrived via the
land bridges that connected Cape York to southern Papua New Guinea.
- ~400 years ago - Macassans from the Celebes visited
the Gulf coast regularly to fish for Trepang or Sea
slugs
- 1606 - William Janzoon in the Duyfken sailed
down west coast of Cape York peninsula as far as Cape Keer-weer
- 1770 - Captain James Cook planted the English flag
on Possession Island.
- 1791 - Captain Bligh passed around the Cape after the
Bounty mutiny.
- 1848 - Edmund Kennedy's tragic expedition from Cardwell
to the Tip of Cape York with his Aboriginal guide, Jacky Jacky.
- 1860s - First Europeans settle on Cape York.
- 1861 - Government trading post built at Somerset, intended
to rival Singapore. The settlement was abandoned in 1877.
- 1887 - Telegraph line from Brisbane to Thursday Island
opened.
Cape York was also established as a World War II frontline,
with 15,000 American and Australian troops and associated airfield
and maritime construction.
Indigenous Culture
Diverse traditional lifestyles from the savannah, rainforest
and islands are represented in the region. The Aboriginal people
of Cape York and the people of the Torres Straits Islands have
had a significant modern influence on current Native Title Legislation
through the Mabo (Murray Island, Torres Strait) and Wik (Weipa
region) rulings.
One of the most important rock-art sites in the world depicting
the rituals and mythology of the local Ang-Gnarra people can be
visited at Laura.
Things To See And Do
- Visit the northern-most tip of Australia, gateway to the Torres
Strait Islands
- Stroll through the ruins at Somerset.
- Get into the outdoors at the Cape's National Parks - Possession
Island, Iron Range, Mungkan Kandju, Rokeby and Lakefield.
Services
- Fuel: Available at Mt. Molloy, Mt. Carbine, Palmer
River, Lakeland, Cooktown, Laura, Hann River, Musgrave, Coen,
Archer River, Lockhart River, Bamaga, Seisia, Thursday Island,
Weipa, and the Jardine River Roadhouse. Diesel, unleaded and
LRP are readily available. No LPG after Cooktown.
- Medical: Medical and hospital facilities can be found
in Cooktown, Weipa, Bamaga and Thursday Island. Coen and many
communities have clinics. The Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS)
has its closest base in Cairns. Phone: 07 4053 1952.
- Banking: Westpac bank with EFTPOS in Cooktown, and
National Australia Bank on Thursday Island are the only banks
on the Cape. However, post offices are agents for the Commonwealth
bank and can be found at Mt. Molloy, Laura, Coen, Bamaga, Thursday
Island, and Weipa. Most businesses accept major credit cards
and limited EFTPOS facilities may be available.
- Groceries are available at all towns.
- Hotel/motel, caravan parks, resorts, bush camping.
- Public Internet access is available at the public library
in Weipa and on Thursday Island.
Access
- Air: The following airlines operate scheduled flights
and/or tours and charters to Cape York.
- Sea: Regular freight and passenger services operate
to and around Cape York.
- Seaswift
Sealink - Weekly, all year round service operates between
Cairns, Bamaga and Thursday Island. Phone: 1800 424 422
within Australia or 07 4035 1234. Fax: 07 4035 1249. admin@seaswift.com.au
- Gulf Freight Services - Regular weekly freight service
between Karumba and Weipa. Phone: 1800 640 049 within Australia
or 07 4051 3411. Fax: 07 4031 5847.
- Jardine Shipping - Twice-weekly vehicular barge from Cairns
to Thursday Island and Bamaga. Phone: 07 4035 1900. Fax:
07 4035 1685
- Bus: Buses operate once a week between Cairns and Weipa
from April to October.
- Self Drive: The Peninsula Developmental Road is the
single route to the tip. It has evolved from the original telegraph
line's service track. Access is in the dry season only, approximately
mid May to November. Roads are unsealed and become impassable
after rain, and watercourses rise across all routes. Road conditions
can change quickly. 4WD is highly recommended, and thorough
vehicle and travel preparation required, including maintenance
checks, tool and spares packing.
This is a remote area with few services and some rugged
road surfaces. Check road conditions before travelling by
contacting the Police in Bamaga (+61) 07 4069 3156, Weipa
(+61) 07 4069 9119 or Coen (+61) 07 4060 1150.
North of the Wenlock River, travellers can choose the maintained
Bypass Roads or the more adventurous Telegraph Track which
offers some very challenging four wheel driving. From Cooktown
to Daintree the Bloomfield Track along the coast offers some
additional, less challenging four wheel driving.
- Tour: Savannah Guide Master Operator, Wilderness
Challenge, runs regular multi-day accommodated and camping
safaris to Cape York. Phone: 07 4055 6504. Fax: 07 4057 7226.
info@wilderness-challenge.com.au.
Further Information
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